On a remote stretch of Nova Scotia’s South Shore, where the roads are unpaved and the ocean breeze carries stories from generations past, sits Big Tancook Island, a place that has welcomed Backroads guests for over a decade. With just 150 year-round residents, this close-knit community has long been a highlight of our Nova Scotia trips, offering a rare and genuine cultural connection shaped by local traditions, homemade lobster lunches and the unforgettable "kissing the lobster" ceremony.
I have been leading trips in Nova Scotia since 2019, and one of my all-time favorites is the Hiking & Walking trip, mostly because we get to visit Tancook Island. Nova Scotia is one of those places where the beauty is not always right in front of you. There are no towering mountains or European-style villages. The charm here is quieter. It may take a bit of work to find it. But when you do, usually through the people you meet and the pace of life, it sticks with you. It is the kind of beauty that stays in your heart long after the trip is over.
One of the most memorable moments on the trip is when we take a small boat from Lunenburg, captained by a local fisherman, and head out across the Atlantic. Eventually, the island comes into view: Big Tancook. When we arrive, we are greeted by locals who are genuinely happy to see us. Things feel a bit like they are from another time. There is a calm here, a rhythm that invites you to slow down and really take it all in.
We walk the island’s dirt roads, passing weathered homes and sea-worn fences, and make our way to the community Recreation Centre. There, a group of volunteers welcomes us with a homemade lobster lunch. It is simple, generous and full of heart. And then comes the part that always makes people smile—a little ceremony where guests become honorary Tancook Islanders. But to make it official, you have to kiss the lobster.
It is a small moment, a bit silly maybe, but it is also the kind that stays with people. For many, this is when they truly get Nova Scotia. It is not just about the views or the food. It is about the feeling. And that is what makes this trip so special to me.
At the heart of it all is the Tancook Island Recreation Centre. Built in 1976 and powered entirely by volunteers, the Rec Centre is more than just a gathering space—it's the social and cultural heartbeat of the island. From community dances and summer carnivals to emergency fire and medical response services, the Centre plays an essential role in the daily life and long-term resilience of Tancook.
As the island prepares for a new chapter—with a car ferry scheduled to arrive in 2026—change is on the horizon. Easier access will bring more visitors, but also new challenges. How does a small island preserve its identity, traditions and way of life in the face of growing tourism?
To support this transition, Backroads has approved a $5,000 donation through our Give Back Field Project program. The funds will directly support the Recreation Centre’s efforts to upgrade its facilities, host year-round community events and expand youth programming—all led by and for the people of Tancook.
The Give Back Field Project program was introduced in 2025 and combines paid hours for volunteerism with micro-donations for Backroads field staff to support initiatives in the communities where they live and we travel. Collaborating with local organizations, initiatives focus on the intersection of responsible travel and active tourism. Other completed projects have been as varied and wide-reaching as donating bicycles and bike assembly expertise in Cambodia to performing trail maintenance in Alaska.
Whether it’s installing safer access to the building’s basement entrance, updating kitchen equipment for public and private gatherings or hiring a local youth to help manage visitor engagement, every improvement is designed to keep the island strong, welcoming and grounded in its roots.
Here's what this project will help make possible:
- 5+ community-led events, from craft workshops and live music BBQs to holiday festivities and the beloved summer carnival.
- 1 local summer hire, supporting programming, visitor interaction and small business efforts like the island’s community café.
- 20+ residents actively engaged in programming—from running the café to hosting events and sharing island life with visitors.
- 100+ Backroads guests each year will continue to experience the culture of Tancook through a more enriched and interactive visit.
- 500+ annual visitors will benefit from the Centre’s role as a café, visitor hub and welcoming space for community connection.
This isn’t our first investment in the Rec Centre. Over the years, proceeds from our trips have helped fund essential upgrades—a new floor, kitchen renovation, washroom improvements and a new heating system, just to name a few. These improvements ensure that tourism dollars stay on the island, supporting the people who make this destination so special.
At Backroads, we believe in the power of travel to build bridges—and that starts with listening to and investing in the communities who host us. Supporting the Tancook Island Recreation Centre is about more than funding; it’s about standing alongside the community as it writes its next chapter, on its own terms.
Nova Scotia is full of hidden treasures. As I mentioned, it is the people who truly make this place special. Over the years, Backroads has built strong, lasting relationships with the communities we visit, and that is a big part of what makes this trip feel so personal. We are proud to bring you to places you might not find on your own—and even more so, to introduce you to the people you might not otherwise meet. Those quiet moments, shared stories and unexpected connections are what stay with you long after the trip ends.
As the ferry approaches and the tides of change roll in, we’re proud to help ensure that the spirit of Tancook—its stories, its people and its lobster—remains at the center of the journey.
