Dreaming of traveling in the land of pizza and pasta but not sure if you can navigate the famed wheat-loving country with a gluten allergy? Let me assure you: you can! As a Backroads Trip Leader, I’ve been successfully living gluten-free in Italy for a decade. I’m constantly discovering Italian dishes that are naturally gluten-free, as well as gluten-free alternatives that are more and more available. Each region of Italy has its own specialties and, as you travel from one area to the next, you will find unique dishes that are both delicious and free of gluten.
Why Italian Cuisine Works for Gluten-Free Travelers
Italy is a peninsula with 4,700 miles of coastline, so that means fish and seafood frequently appear on menus. It also has diversified agriculture, which translates into lots of high quality, pasture-raised meats and farm-fresh—often organic—veggies. And let’s not forget that Italians are avid hunters as well, both for wild game, like rabbits, deer and boar, and wild mushrooms like porcini, chanterelles and the prized black and white truffles.
How Italian Restaurants Handle Gluten Allergies
Most restaurants in Italy take allergies seriously, and waiters and cooks are accustomed to catering to dietary requests. You’ll often find that dishes containing common allergens such as gluten, dairy and nuts are clearly marked on menus. In addition, it’s not uncommon for restaurants to stock gluten-free pasta, so they can make the same dish, but substitute the noodles. And gluten-free pizza is becoming more available at pizzerias as well. Learn the common phrase “senza glutine” (without gluten) and tack it onto your dinner order!
Naturally Gluten-Free Italian Foods to Try
Risotto: An Italian Staple
A great pasta alternative that’s found from the top to the tip of the boot is risotto. Made from Italian grains of rice, risotto is inherently gluten-free. Try ordering risotto alla pescatora (with seafood) on the Amalfi Coast or risotto milanese with saffron in the north, like around the Italian Lakes. Risotto is typically made to order and, due to its labor-intensive preparation, served as a portion for two people. It’s delicious, filling and gluten-lovers will enjoy it too!
Polenta: Northern Italy’s Favorite Side Dish
Another naturally gluten-free dish is polenta, a cornmeal dish that often serves as a bed for stewed or grilled meats and hearty vegetables like mushrooms. Ubiquitous in the north, it’s the perfect fare after a brisk hike or spin through the mountainous northern Dolomites region. The best place to eat polenta is at a cozy mountain hut in front of a stunning view of the jagged, pink-hued Dolomite peaks. Try it at Rifugio Col Pradat, for example, featured on our Dolomites Hiking and Multi-Adventure Tours.
Farinata: Liguria’s Chickpea Flatbread
Another favorite gluten-free find is farinata, a flatbread made of chickpea flour that’s a specialty of Liguria. You can find it served by the slice in bakeries or made to order at pizzerias, where they often offer it with toppings such as pesto, stracchino cheese, sausage or even fresh artichokes. I first discovered farinata in Santa Margherita Ligure while leading our Cinque Terre & Tuscany Walking & Hiking Tour. The recipe is so simple that you can easily make it at home with common ingredients: chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt. The secret is letting the batter rest before cooking!
Castagnaccio: A Tuscan Chestnut Cake
How about a sweet treat made of chestnut flour? Known as castagnaccio, this traditional Tuscan cake is typically found in the fall months when fresh chestnuts are ground into a flour and combined with pine nuts or walnuts, raisins and rosemary. The final product is slightly sweet, slightly savory, with a delicate, chewy texture. Its flavors embody the harvest season, and I always have my eyes peeled for this delicacy while leading biking trips through Tuscany in the fall. Look for it in bakeries and grocery stores, particularly in October and November.
Buckwheat Dessert in the Dolomites
Another wheat alternative in Italy is buckwheat, known as grano saraceno in Italian. While leading biking trips in the Dolomites, I discovered that one typical dessert is often made solely with grano saraceno—layered with raspberry jam, it’s eponymously called Torta di Grano Saraceno. Although the traditional recipe doesn’t contain wheat flour, it’s always best to confirm before indulging!
Gluten-Free Crepes, Waffles and Gelato
I’ve found places that make buckwheat crepes and waffles too, my favorite being Gelateria Gepi, another great find in Santa Margherita Ligure. Speaking of gelaterie, let me fill you in on one of my favorite gluten-free secrets: the gelateria Grom. Grom is now an international chain, but it was started by two Italian brothers and grew out of the Italian Slow Food movement. Grom prides itself on making gelato with the highest quality ingredients, like the famed Bronte pistachios from Sicily. Most importantly, everything in their shops is gluten-free. That’s right: the gelato, the cones, the cookies... EVERYTHING! They have locations in various Italian cities, including Siena, a town I visit regularly when leading our biking trips in Tuscany.
Gluten-Free Restaurants & Product Lines
Celiac disease is so prevalent and accepted in Italy that Italian citizens who are diagnosed with it receive subsidies from the government to purchase gluten-free products. Though you won’t have access to that benefit as a visitor, you will be able to dine in some excellent gluten-free restaurants. And if you’re staying in Florence, before or after one of our many trips in Tuscany, be sure to check out fully gluten-free Sgrano, which makes the best sandwiches, or its sister restaurant, Osteria dello Sgrano, which offers homemade gluten-free pastas and desserts.
If you’re staying in Italy (or another Western European country) and would like to buy some gluten-free snacks or supplies, look for products by Schär, one of the leading producers of gluten-free products in Europe. The brand was developed by a pharmacist based in the South Tyrol town of Meran, which we visit on our Dolomites Bike Tour. The company has been dedicated to developing products that are as close as possible to traditional foods, which means that you can even find some products that are local specialties and only sold in those regions. Schär began operating in the US in 2007, so you can indulge in this little bit of Italian Alpine gluten-free goodness, even at home!
You Can Go Active and Gluten-Free in Italy!
Still unsure about traveling with Backroads in Italy as a celiac or gluten-sensitive individual? Rest assured that everyone from your Trip Leaders to our hotel and restaurant vendors are comfortable with dietary requests and happy to accommodate to the full extent that they are able. Mentioning an allergy or dietary restriction to our Sales staff during booking will ensure that the information is passed on to both your Trip Leaders and the dining venues on your trip. Italy is, in fact, one of the easiest destinations for gluten-free travelers. Because bread and pasta is such an integral part of the cuisine and celiac disease is so prevalent in the country, appropriate alternatives are readily available to ensure that you can fully enjoy the Italian culinary experience. Go ahead, book the trip and live your Italian dream senza glutine!
