"My first meal is at El Cuajaní . . . . The restaurant opened a year ago, after its owner, José Luis Gomez, returned to Cuba from Miami. He’d been working in a kitchen there, but noticed that tourism at home was on the rise. Gomez hasn’t bothered to set a menu, 'because in Cuba you can’t find anything.' So [he] cooks . . . a white-bean hummus; fillets of bonito, a fish not so distant from tuna; battered-and-fried balls of lobster meat; and mashed malanga, or taro root, subtly seasoned."