Backroads

A wealth of authentic encounters offer a glimpse inside life in this diverse and culturally rich region. Chat family-to-family with the Comor clan in their traditional home in the highland Muslim village of Lukomir. At the Hadzi-Alija Mosque, delight in a rare private conversation with the Imam. Meet Kimenta, who teaches us how to make savory börek pastries. From Guma the bridge diver to Andro the vintner, our local friends love sharing their culture with you and your kids.

Croatia's coastline is one of the world's most beautiful, lapped by the crystalline Adriatic and strewn with some 1,185 paradisiacal islands - we introduce you to two of our favorites. Hvar, swanky haven for sun-worshipers and famous faces seeking anonymity, is adored for its vibrant turquoise waters, stunning coves and average "sun fall" of 2,724 hours per year. The 13th-century square in Hvar Town, paved with regional white stone and bordered by a popular waterfront promenade, is an excellent spot to soak up café culture and sample the local seafood. The island of Korcula, which claims to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, is green with pine, cypress and oak forests, and indented with a string of quiet coves and hidden beaches. And Korcula Town, with its ancient walls, radiating "fishbone" streets and Venetian-influenced architecture, is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Eastern Europe.

For the last four days of your trip, journey among Croatia's islands on our traditional wooden sailing vessel and private home for three nights. (Yes, you've got your very own cabin!) It's a voyage that allows ample time to absorb the beauty of the Dalmatian Coast. Splash and play in the Adriatic or just kick back on deck, and shoot the breeze with our local boat crew, an entertaining lot with a trove of tall tales to share.

There's something to satisfy the whole gang. Highlights include fresh sea bass, grouper and mackerel - grilled, broiled or marinated. Shrimp, squid, mussels and oysters - on their own or combined in stews and risottos. Complementing the fresh seafood are smoked pork, prosciutto and spit-roasted lamb. Plus desserts such as dried figs or almonds with honey, and an array of local wines. Simplicity never tasted so good!

In Sarajevo and Mostar feast your eyes on exquisite examples of classic Ottoman buildings, such as the iconic Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque, as well as Hapsburg-era architecture, Orthodox churches and Jewish synagogues. Striking Venetian-style architecture abounds throughout Croatia's Dalmatian Coast, reflecting the 400 years that Venice controlled the region.